Calligraphy at Chez Zeina

 

If you’re looking for a great place to eat Lebanese food in Montmartre, we recommend heading down Rue Dancourt to try the cuisine at Chez Zena. Recently relocated from Lamarck-Caulaincourt, Zena and her husband Samer had already charmed the neighborhood for several years, and their brand new restaurant is now located just below the Théâtre de l’Atelier.

The couple met in Beirut one summer evening, and it was by tasting Zena’s cooking that Sam instantly fell in love. He was already working with his father on Rue Simart before inviting his wife to join him in opening a restaurant together in France. It was on Rue de la Fontaine du But that the young couple launched a catering service with a neighborhood canteen vibe, quickly earning a small reputation that remained strong for five years. The atmosphere was filled with good humor and a melodious accent, and sometimes people even danced late into the night behind drawn curtains. However, Zena and Sam eventually felt a bit cramped, and just a month ago, the family moved to the other side of the Butte to a larger venue, where they can now double their seating capacity.

The lightness of the brushwork by Lebanese artist Wawi Abdel Kader is a true invitation to peek through the window, and the pretty benches with pompom cushions will convince you to step inside. Once through the door, you’ll admire the frescoes by Céline Khoury and Elodie Sonbol, which color the walls with their talent. The counter of oriental pastries and still-steaming mezzes deliciously introduces you to the smile of the hostess, who invites you to sit wherever you like, as if you were at home. The traditional spit roasting the meat fills the air with the delightful smell of grilled shawarma, and the classic sandwich with fries and a drink to take away is just 10 euros. If you decide to sit down, perusing the menu might complicate your life greatly due to the difficult choices: homemade hummus with a lemony twist, incredibly delicate tabbouleh, various types of falafel, kefta skewers, and shared platters of grilled meats with fresh vegetables and pomegranates. The olive oil is so fragrant that if you close your eyes, you might almost believe you’re under an olive tree in 30-degree weather. Eagerly awaiting your order, you’ll be soothed by the family-friendly atmosphere, where regulars stop by for coffee, with trendy music from Radio Liban and vintage brass teapots hanging from the ceiling. But at Chez Zena, you’ll also find specialties that are out of the ordinary: loubieh, moughrabieh, Almaza Beirut beer, or traditional arak, an alcoholic beverage at 53 degrees, made from grapes and anise seeds. Before leaving, ask for a mint tea or orange blossom lemonade, as the climb back up might be challenging.

Stay tuned.

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